• Place the window in the opening
• Pick up the window and rest the bottom platform on the rough sill. Then tilt the unit up so the trim around the outside butts against the sheathing. Center the jambs between the trimmer studs. While your helpers hold the window, slide sawhorses underneath to hold it.
• Shim the window bottom


Bay Window

• Use a level to determine which end of the seat board is higher. Nail that end to the rough sill. With the level positioned on the seat board, drive shims from both inside and outside between the sill and the seat board, placing the shims over each cripple stud. When the seat board is level, nail through the shims into the rough sill.
• Shim the window sides
• Check for plumb along the iambs, bath from side to side and from front to back. Drive shims between the jamb and the trimmer studs as needed, spacing them 12 inches apart. When the iambs are perfectly straight and plumb, drill pilot holes and drive finishing nails through the iambs and shims into the trimmer studs.
• Shim the window top
• Shim the head board and header until they are bath straight and level. Measure at several places between the head board and seat board; the measurements should be exactly the same. Secure the head board by driving nails through it and the shims. Fill any cavities with insulation. If the window requires cables, anchor them according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Build the roof
• Staple plastic sheeting over the top of the window and trim the excess with a utility knife. If you’re installing a roof with a prebuilt frame, position the roof frame on top of the window and fasten it to the cripple studs and the top of the window. If you’re building your roof without a frame, install rafters, as shown. (ut and nail hip and end rafters at each end.
• Cut siding & sheath the roof
• Rest the center piece of roof sheathing against the top edge of the window and against the siding; mark where the sheathing touches the siding. Repeat with end pieces. Remove the sheathing and frame, and cut the siding along the pencil lines. Remove the siding. Then nail the sheathing to the rafters, using 2-inch nails spaced 6 inches apart.
• Finish the exterior
• After covering the bottom of the window with plastic sheeting, install a 2-by-2 frame near the outer edges. Nail furring strips to the skirt boards and screw the boards to the 2 by 2s. Cover the bottom panel with insulation and attach it to the furring strips.

Use trendy, woven wood blinds to decorate your windows.

Before gypsum wallboard became the interior surface finish material of choice in the 1 950s, plaster was very commonly used for finishing interior walls and ceilings. Plaster is a very hard and durable material, but-because it isn’t a resilient material-it has a tendency to crack as a home moves with earthquakes or naturally settles over the years. Once cracks form, plaster may eventually work loose.

Repairing Plaster Walls

A mixture of portland cement, sand, and water, plaster may be applied over wood lath, metal mesh, special gypsum wallboard, or masonry. During application, a scratch coat is applied onto the backing material. Next, a thick undercoat is troweled onto the surface, then a finish coat is applied.

Here you’ll find instructions for patching cracks and holes in plaster. If a large area is damaged or the base needs repair, consult a professional.

Small Cracks And Holes Fine cracks, nail holes, and small gouges in plaster usually can be repaired with spackling compound. Widen the hairline cracks to about ‘/s inch with the tip of a lever-type can opener; blowout dust and debris. With your finger or a putty knife, fill the crack with spackling compound. Sand the compound in a circular motion when dry, using a block wrapped with fine-grade sandpaper. Prime the patch with sealer before painting.

Large Cracks For larger cracks, undercut the crack with a lever-type can opener or a putty knife to help bond the new plaster; blowout dust and debris. Dampen the crack with a sponge, then use a putty knife to fill just over half the depth of the crack with patching plaster. Score the plaster with a nail when firm but not hard to provide “bite” for the next layer. Dampen the dry patch again and use a broad knife to apply the next layer to within ‘/s and ‘/, inch of the surface. Let the patch dry before applying the finish coat. Fill with finishing plaster and strike off with a straightedge to remove excess.

Finishing Tips Matching an existing texture requires skillful treatment of the still-wet finishing plaster. You’ll have to experiment to achieve a good match. For a smooth surface, pull a metal float or wide putty knife dipped in water across the plaster. When dry, sand to remove minor imperfections, prime, and paint. For a textured surface, use paintbrush, stippling brush, household sponge, sponge float whisk broom, or wire brush-whatever will give you the desired finish. Daub or swirl the plaster-in a uniform, random, or overlapping pattern. To create peaks in the plaster use a brush or a tool with bristles; when the peaks start t stiffen, gently draw a clean metal float over the surface to smooth them. Let the plaster dry, then prime and paint.

Repairing Plaster

1. Prepare the hole

Remove cracked plaster from the edges of the hole with a cold chisel and hammer. Undercut the edges to ensure a good bond; blow away debris. Dampen the edges with a sponge.

1. Apply a first coat

Using a brood knife, fill a little more than half the hole’s depth with patching plaster; force it through gaps in the lath. Score the plaster with a nail when firm and let it dry.

1. Apply a second coat

Dampen the patch again; use a brood knife to apply a second layer of plaster 10 within 1/8 and ¼ inch of the surface. When firm, score the plaster with a nail to provide “bite” for the next layer; allow 10 dry.

1. Apply the finish coat

Use a broad knife or a 10-inch taping knife to apply finishing plaster; feather the edges an inch or more beyond the edges of the patch. Remove excess wet plaster with a straightedge. For a smooth finish, dip a metal float in water and, holding the float at a slight angle to the wall, draw it down from top to bottom. When dry, sand and prime.

If The Hole Has No Backing

If there isn’t any lath or backing to support a new coat of plaster, your patching material will just fall down into the wall-so you need to provide backing. After preparing the hole, loop a wire through a piece of rust-resistant metal mesh. Roll the edges, insert the mesh into the hole, flatten it out by pulling the wire, then wind it up with a stick. After you’ve patched the hole, remove the stick and snip off the wire.

We’ll look at a variety of common plumbing improvements that involve changing or installing plumbing fixtures. Of course, to install a fixture, the proper configuration of pipes must be in place-usually in the wall and/or under the floor. The first stage of preparing for fixtures is known as “roughing-in” the plumbing.

fixtures rough in

The proper rough-in for fixtures depends upon a number of factors, notably the way the fixture is made, the room’s layout and building and plumbing codes(be sure to check your local codes). When you buy a new sink, toilet or similar fixture, rough-in templates and instructions are nearly always included with the product. Carefully read the manufacturer’s directions before roughing in a fixture.

Following are directions for roughing-in two common fixture improvements: a bathroom sink and a toilet.

A bathroom sink is fairly easy to install and has little effect on a drain’s efficiency, though a new sink must be vented as stipulated by your local code. You can run pipes along the surface of a wall in certain circumstances, but it’s best to handle all rough-in plumbing during the framing stage of construction, when the walls are open, so pipes may be concealed. Otherwise, in most cases, you’ll have to remove wall surface materials and replace them when you’re finished.

A toilet is the most troublesome fixture to install in a house because it requires its own vent(2-inch minimum) and at least a 3-inch drain. If it is on a branch drain, a toilet cannot be upstream from a sink or shower

Roughing-In Bathroom Sink

In addition to vent connections, you will need ½-inch hot-and cold-water supply stubouts; shutoff valves; transition fittings, if necessary; and flexible riser tubes. You may also need water­hammer arresters on the supply pipes to prevent pipes from banging.

Sloping A Drain

The maximum distance allowed from the trap to the stack or vent is coiled the critical distance. The drain outlet cannot be below the level of the trap’s crown weir. If the fixture drain is vented properly within the critical distance, the drainpipe may run on indefinitely to the actual stack or main drain.

Roughing-In A Toilet

The closet bend and toilet floor flange must be roughed in first(be sure to allow for the wall covering material’s thickness when measuring the outlet’s distance from framing). The floor flange must be positioned at the level of the eventual finished floor. You will also need the following piping supplies: ½-inch riser tube, a cold-water supply stubout, shutoff valve, and flexible riser tube.

Framing A Toilet Drain

When installing a new toilet, you may need to cut an entire section out of a joist to accommodate the drain piping. Reinforce that section by nailing doubled headers on both sides of the cut.

It’s a good idea to inspect and repair your roof in autumn, before the hard weather hits. Examine the roof again in spring to assess any winter damage. If you discover problems, make the necessary repairs.

Solving Roof Leaks

Inspecting From Inside Begin an inspection in the attic, using a strong flashlight, a thin screwdriver; a knife, and a piece of chalk to examine the ridge beam, rafters, and sheathing. Look for water stains, dark-colored areas of wet wood, moisture, and soft spots that may indicate dry rot. Mark the wet spots with chalk so you can find them easily later on.

Be very careful when in the attic that you step only on ceiling joists or other surfaces that are strong enough to support you. If it’s necessary to remove insulation batts to examine the sheathing, be sure to wear gloves, goggles, a respirator for protection, and loose clothing to protect against skin irritation.

Next, turn off any lights. If you see any holes above you, drive nails or poke wire through them so they’ll be visible from the roof’s surface. (In a wood-shingle roof, shafts of light coming in at an angle indicate separations that may shut when the shingles are wet.)

Inspecting From Outside When you examine the roof from outdoors, evaluate the condition of the roof structure, surface material, flashing, eaves, and gutters.

To check the roof structure, stand back from the house and look at the lines of the ridge and rafters. The ridge line should be perfectly horizontal, and the line of the rafters, which you can assess by looking along the plane of each roof section, should be straight. If either sags, call in a contractor-your house may have a structural problem.

Next, inspect the roof’s surface. Before climbing up on your roof, be sure to read the safety tips. If you’re at all nervous about going up on the roof, make the inspection from a ladder; using a pair of binoculars. Don’t walk on the roof any more than is absolutely necessary; you can easily cause more damage.

Inspect the flashing for corrosion and broken seals along the edges. If you have metal gutters and downspouts, look for rust spots and holes. Then examine the roof surface for signs of wear; loose or broken nails, or curled, broken, or missing shingles.

Use a knife and screwdriver to test the boards along the eaves and rakes. If you encounter damage caused by dry rot, replace the boards and finish them to match the existing areas.

Roof leaks usually appear during storms when you can’t make permanent repairs. But you can take steps to temporarily divert or halt the flow of water; as shown in the illustrations on facing page.

Generally, leaks begin at a roof’s most vulnerable spots­ at flashing, where shingles are damaged, in valleys, or at eaves. The water may show up far from its point of origin after working its way through layers of roofing materials and down rafters to collect in a puddle in the attic or other areas of the house.

During a storm, trace the course of water to find where it’s coming through the roof. If you can find a hole or leak, drive a nail or wire through the hole so you can find it later when you get up on top of the roof. Once the roof is dry enough, look for spots that indicate the source of the leak. Remember; the point where a nail or wire is poking through may not be below the actual source.

How Leaks Travel

Leaks rarely appear directly below where they originate. A spreading water stain on the ceiling indicates puddling water. Drive a nail or poke a wire up through the leaking area to drain some of the water into a bucket directly below.

Temporary Repairs For Roof Leaks

Emergency Patch

Using a putty knife or caulking gun, apply plastic roofing cement liberally to the hole from inside. Work the compound in thoroughly so it adheres.

Solving Roof Leaks

When the roof is dry, slide a 2-foot square of galvanized sheet metal under the row of shingles above the missing or damaged shingle.

Repairing Gutters

A roof sheds water, but it’s the gutter and downspout system that carries the water away from the house. Most gutters and downspouts are made from galvanized steel, aluminum, or vinyl, though you may find some made from wood or copper.

Gutters are attached to the eaves of the house with strap, bracket, or; most commonly, spike-and-ferrule hangers. Downspouts are attached to the exterior walls with straps.

To work effectively, gutters and downspouts must be in sound condition with watertight joints; they must slope properly and be free of leaves, twigs, and other debris. Regular maintenance is crucial to avoid flooded gutters. In fall and spring, clean out debris with a hose and scrub brush.

Fixing Door Drainage Make sure the gutters drain properly by running water through them. If drainage is slow, reposition gutters; they should slope toward the downspouts at a rate of 1-inch for every 20 linear feet. To correct low spots, adjust the hangers. Very long gutters often drain very slowly or not at all. The remedy: Raise the middle and install a downspout at each end.

Repairing Water Damage Test for weaknesses in gutters, downspouts, and fascia boards by probing with an awl, thin screwdriver, or pocket knife. Also look for flaking or peeling paint, rust spots, loose spikes, and leaky joints. If you find a rotted fascia board, carve out the bad spots and fill them in with an exterior-grade wood putty or simply replace the damaged section of board with a piece of well­seasoned lumber(apply a wood preservative first).

Also tighten loose hangers and replace any that are broken. Check that downspout straps are secured to the house walls and that all elbow connections are tight. Secure loose elbows with ½-inch sheet-metal screws or pop rivets. If a large section of gutter is badly damaged, replace the whole section.

Fixing Leaks And Holes If wood gutters leak, let them dry out thoroughly, then repaint the insides with latex house paint. You can seal pinhole leaks with dabs of roofing cement.

For metal gutters that are rusting, thoroughly wash the gutter of all dirt and debris, and wipe the damaged area dry. Then use a wire brush or coarse sandpaper to remove any paint, grease, or corrosion. Wipe the surface clean with a rag. Apply aluminum paint to the inside and rust-preventative zinc-based primer to the outside.

Three Gutter Repairs

Fix a leaky joint

Apply silicone sealant or butyl-rubber caulking to seal around the seams between sections on the inside and outside of the gutter.

Patch a small hole

Using a putty knife, patch with a thin coat of roofing cement, spreading the cement and extending it beyond the hole in all directions.

Patch a large hole

Apply a thick, uniform layer of roofing cement to the damaged area, extending the cement 6 inches beyond each side of the hole. Then, to cover the roofing cement, cut a repair patch from a piece of aluminum, copper or galvanized metal flashing, depending on what the gutter is made of. Embed the patch in the cement, and apply another coat of cement over the top.

Unclogging Gutters And Downspouts

1. Clean out

Remove leaves, twigs, and other debris from gutter troughs(protect your hands with gloves). Loosen dirt with a stiff brush; hose all debris out of the system.

1. Flush downspouts

Clean blocked downspouts by spraying with a garden hose turned on full force. For a stubborn dog, feed a plumber’s snake into the downspout and then flush all loosened debris out with a hose.

1. Install mesh

Add mesh screens or other types of leaf catchers to deflect leaves, twigs, and other debris over the edge of the gutter. A leaf strainer will admit water and filter out debris.

Leaf-Catching System

Keep gutters free of leaves and other debris so they won’t clog and fill with water. The weight of water when they’re filled can dislodge or bend them. And, over time, sheet metal gutters may rust when water pools in them.

To cut back on gutter-cleaning chores, consider a leaf-catching system. These will filter leaves and debris from the water. But buyer beware; not all types work successfully. And a demonstration won’t necessarily reveal how one of these will work in reality. The best way to check out a system is to request the names and phone numbers of satisfied customers whom you can call.

Of course, even gutters protected by a leaf-catching system will need to be cleaned occasionally. Be sure you can remove the system easily(some are difficult to take off because they are screwed in place or tucked under shingles). And pay special attention to cost-some sophisticated leaf-catching systems are more expensive than the gutters themselves.

Cantilevered bay windows, box bay windows, and bow windows can be built in the same type of opening as conventional windows. The job is heavier but in essence it is only a little more involved than installing a conventional window. Be aware that the building-code requirements for the rough sill for a bay window may be different than for a conventional window, because it must support considerably more weight. To install one of these windows higher up than the first floor call a professional.

How to Install a Bay Window

You can buy a bay window as a kit that includes the windows, head board, and seat board, plus various trim pieces you must assemble. Or you can buy a completely assembled unit ready to install. With the latter type, you just build the roof over the window(unless it reaches the soffit), install support brackets, and finish the inside. Some manufacturers supply a precut roof or roof framing and will also supply the support brackets or cable support system that they recommend. The installation method shown here is for a bay, but it’s applicable to a bow or box window as well.

Be sure you have all the necessary materials before you start. Then prepare both the window and the opening.

Assemble the window according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and check its outside dimensions against the rough opening. It should be about ½-inch shorter than the opening in both height and width. If you need to cut back the siding, follow Steps 3 and 4.

A bay window is heavy! To set it in place, you’ll need helpers, one for every 3 feet of window width. You’ll also need a sawhorse every 3 feet to support the window once it’s in the opening.

Before starting installation, read through the following directions and study the illustrations to become familiar with the various parts and steps.

To install support brackets, toenail a cripple stud to the rough sill and the sole plate under each mullion. Position one of the support brackets under one of the mullions with the long leg against the siding; the short leg goes against the underside of the window. Use 3/8-inch lag screws to fasten the long leg through the siding into the cripple. The other leg is fastened to the underside of the window with wood screws. Install the other bracket. For large windows, use more brackets.

Some manufacturers suggest installing brackets before the window is lifted into the rough opening; others suggest raising the window into the frame first and adding the brackets afterward. If your window requires a cable support system instead of(or in combination with) support brackets, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Positioning The Window Prop the window in the rough opening and have your helpers hold it there while you go inside to get it level and plumb. Nail the highest end to the sill, about 2 inches from the jamb, then drive shims from both inside and outside between the sill and the seat board, placing shims over each cripple stud, until the seat board is level. Nail through the shims to the rough sill.

While helpers move the window, drive shims between jamb and the trimmer stud until the jamb is plumb, nail it.

Unless your window comes with a preassembled roof, you’ll have to build one; design it to reflect the style of your house.

Cover the top of the head board with insulation, packing it loosely inside the frame. Attach the end pieces of sheathing, then the center. You can shingle the roof of the match your house or have a sheet-metal professional it with copper. (Some manufacturers provide a copper roof as an option.) If you shingle, you’ll need to flash it would the main roof.

To finish the unit, install exterior trim and caulk along it. If needed, install a skirt and bottom panel.

There is a style of paneling to suit almost any decor. Choices include rustic boards, frame and panel designs with or without molding, and elaborate raised panels. You can cover an entire wall or choose waist-or shoulder-high wainscoting. Paneling can be made of fine hardwoods or inexpensive pine. Finishes run the gamut as well: Panels can be painted, stained, given a clear finish, or coated with any number of decorative finishes.

How to Paneling A Wall

Paneling is sold in two main forms: sheets and boards. Sheets are typically 4 feet by 8 feet. Solid boards range from 3/8-to 7/8-inch thick, but the most common thicknesses are ½ and ¾ inch. Boards fall between 3 and 10 inches wide and may have either square, tongue-and­groove, or shiplap edges.

Before installing paneling, move the materials into the room where they will be installed for two to five days to allow the wood to adjust to the home’s humidity level. This will help eliminate any excess shrinkage or expansion once the panels are secured to the wall.

Preparing A Wall When applying sheet or board pane 5 over a finished wood-frame wall, you may be able to attach the material through the wallboard or plaster to the wa studs; otherwise, attach furring strips-l-by-3s or 1-by­4s-to the studs as a base for securing the panels. If the wall is new, without wallboard or plaster; you can attach sheets or boards directly to the studs or to 2-by-4 blocks nailed between the studs. Attach furring strips to wall studs with nails long enough to penetrate the studs by at least inch. Fasten them to masonry walls with concrete nails or screws and shield-type masonry anchors.

Furring strips should be plumb and fiat; you can make small adjustments with cedar shingle shims wedged behind the strips. If the existing wall is severely out of plumb, shim out furring strips as needed. Leave a 14-inch space at both the top and bottom of the wall when applying the strips to allow for unevenness in the floor or ceiling.

Note that furring strips and paneling will add to the thickness of the wall. Window and door jambs must be built out in order to compensate for this added dimension. It’s like that you’ll have to add extensions to electrical switches and receptacle boxes as well.

Installing Sheet Paneling Before installing each sheet, cut it ¼ inch shorter than the distance from floor to ceiling. Apply adhesive to the framing in wavy lines. Drive four finishing nails through the top edge of the panel. Position the panel on the wall, leaving a ¼-inch space at the bottom drive nails partway into the wall to act as hinge pins. Pull the bottom edge of the panel out about 6 inches from the wall and push a block behind it; wait for the adhesive to become tacky. Remove the block and press the panel firmly into place. Knock on the panel with a rubber mallet or hammer against a padded block. Drive the top-edge nail all the way in, then nail the panels at the bottom. Cover the nail heads and the ¼-inch gap with molding.

Fitting a panel around any opening requires careful measuring, marking, and cutting. Keep track of all the measurements by sketching them on a piece of paper.

Starting from the corner of the wall or the edge of the nearest panel, measure to the edge of the opening or electrical box; then, from the same point, measure to the opening’s opposite edge. Next, measure the distance from the floor to the opening’s bottom edge and from the floor to the opening’s top edge. (Remember that you’ll install the paneling ¼ inch above the floor.) Transfer these measurements to the panel, marking the side of the panel that will face you as you cut (face-up for a handsaw, face-down for a power saw).

Installing Vertical Board Paneling Before installing vertical solid-board paneling, install horizontal furring strips. Measure the width of the paneling boards and then the width of the wall. Calculate the width of the final board. To avoid a sliver-size board, split the difference so the first and last boards are the same. Cut boards ¼ inch shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. When you place the first board into the corner, check the outer edge with a carpenter’s level. If the board isn’t plumb or doesn’t fit exactly, scribe and trim the edge facing the corner.

Attach the first board, leaving a ¼-inch space above the floor(use a prybar as a lever), then butt the second board against its edge and check for plumb. Repeat with all subsequent boards, then nail 24 inches on center. To make the last board fit easily into place, cut its edge at a slight angle(about 5 degrees) toward the board’s back edge. At the inside corners, simply butt adjacent board edges together scribing if necessary. At the outside corners, you can either bevel the joints for a neat fit(cut the bevels at an angle slightly greater than 45 degrees so they’ll fit snugly) or you can butt boards and then conceal the joints with trim.

Installing Horizontal Board Paneling To avoid ending up with a very narrow board at the ceiling, measure the distance from floor to ceiling, figure the number of full­width boards, then split the difference between the top and bottom boards so they will be the same. Start at the bottom of the wall and work toward the ceiling. Nail the first board temporarily at one end, ¼ inch above the floor; use 1½-or 2-inch finishing nails. Level that board, then complete the nailing and set the nail heads. If you need to scribe and trim a board at its ends, follow the instructions for scribing sheet paneling, on this page. Working toward the ceiling, attach each board in the same way, nailing every stud. Rip the last board to width as required. If you have trouble fitting the last board, bevel Its back edge slightly and pivot it into place. Set all nail heads and fill the holes with matching wood putty.

Attaching A Panel

It’s easiest to glue sheets to horizontal furring strips spaced on 24-inch centers. Start in the corner that is adjacent to the most irregular wall and work clockwise. Nail and glue the panels in place as described in the text.

Scribing Sheet Paneling

To mark a wall’s irregularities an the panel’s edge, prop the panel into place about 1 inch from the uneven surface and shim it so that its long edge is plumb. Draw the paints of a compass(open to the greatest gap) along the irregular surface so the pencil leg duplicates the unevenness onto a strip of masking tape on the paneling. Cut the paneling along the scribed line.

Attaching Horizontal Boards

As you install horizontal boards up the wall, keep checking for level and make slight adjustments as necessary. Nail as described in the text.

With a factory-manufactured pre-hung door; hinges attach the door to the preassembled jambs, and the sill and jambs are braced to keep the whole assembly square until you install it. For more about the types of doors available.

Installing A Pre-hung Door

Pre-hung interior doors normally have a piece of scrap trim stapled to the bottom of the door and the jambs. After carrying the door to where you intend to install it, you remove this temporary brace(you must be able to open and close the door as you place shims between the studs and jambs, drive nails to hold the jambs, and check the alignment of jambs).

When you’re ordering a pre-hung door; make sure you specify the wall’s overall thickness. The jambs ordered for plaster-covered walls must be wider than those fm walls finished with drywall. When you fit the jamb into the rough opening, you’ll see that the jamb is wider than the rough framing, and it will stick out on either side-be sure the distances are proper to allow for drywall, plaster; or sheathing and siding(in the case of an exterior door).

For information on how to prepare the rough opening.

Position The Door Properly Place the door in the rough opening, centering it in the frame and fastening it. Using a piece of drywall(or other finish material) as a spacer against the trimmer studs, slightly adjust the unit back and forth until flush with the spacer. (If the finish floor is not yet installed, raise the side jambs to the correct level with blocks; you want to avoid cutting off the bottom of a new door when possible.)

Before nailing the jambs, it’s very important to make sure the door fits squarely in the opening and that the jambs are plumb, both from side to side and from front to back. Drive pairs of tapered wooden shims between the jambs and the trimmer studs (if the casing is attached to the jambs, insert shims from the open side) to adjust the unit and hold it in place until you nail it.

Secure The Door Hinge-Side First Start by shimming the lower hinge side of the door. Nail through the jamb and shims partway (I inch) into the stud with a 3½-inch finishing nail; position the nail where the stop molding will cover it. Insert shims next to the upper hinge location, check the jamb for plumb, and nail partway. Again, shim, plumb, and nail halfway between the top and middle hinge positions. Repeat between the middle and bottom hinges. Check to make sure the jamb above the doorway is level. Now shim the opposite jamb at similar locations, but don’t nail where you’ll need to cut for the latch.

Complete The Installation Remove any bracing or blocking tacked to the unit. Close the door and check that there is the same amount of space(about 1/16 to 1/8-inch) between the edges of the door and the jambs. If the door sticks or is out of alignment, pull nails in the area that seems to be the problem, using a block to protect the jambs from your hammer. Adjust shims and renail. Install the lockset. Drive the nails home and set the heads with a nailset. Cut the shims off flush with the jambs, using a handsaw(you can just break off short, thin pieces). Finish with door casing or other trim.

For exterior doors, nail the threshold between the jambs, shimming below it if the threshold does not rest securely on the subfloor. Finally, install the stop molding with 1½­inch finishing nails.

Installing A Door

Position the pre-hung assembly in the opening and temporarily secure it in place with shims and finishing nails. Adjust for plumb as necessary. After final adjustments are made, set the nail heads, cut the shims flush using a handsaw, and install the trim.

Removing A Door

To remove a door, dose the door securely(place a wedge under it or have a helper hold the door). Using a hammer and a nail, gently tap on the bottom of the lowest hinge pin or on the underside of its head to drive it up and out of the hinge barrel. Remove the middle pin, if any; then remove the top pin. Carefully dislodge the door from its hinges. When you reinstall the door, interlock the hinge leaves, then replace the top pin first. Next replace the middle and bottom pins. Tap the pins home with a hammer only after the hinges are correctly aligned.

Volcano vaporizers are vaporizers for aromatherapy, culinary preparation and smokeless ingestion of herbs such as cannabis. The essential oils or vegetable matter are heated by pressurized convection stream of hot air, variable temperature and resultant vapors have been collected in heat proof bags. The machines consist of conical heater base having controls to manipulate temperature and air flow. These are complete sets of volcano vaporizers having interchangeable sets of valves.

As compared to smoking, these volcano vaporizers develop minimum odors and no worrisome smoke is created. Therefore non-smokers are not subjected to any side effects while sharing room with the smokers. After only a few minutes, any type of discernable odors is removed from the room. The orders are shipped within 2-3 days through UPS. Competitive shipping costs are applicable to international customers while free shipping is delivered to customers within the nation.

Volcano vaporizers may be used for alternative to traditional smoking as well as for aromatherapy. It may also be helpful to quit smoking or to add aroma to your room like scented candles. According to recent studies, chefs are also using volcano vaporizers for adding flavor to their food. The volcano vaporizers available on this site are engineered for attaining maximum efficiency while taking the lungs of the users into consideration. In simple words, these volcano vaporizers are the best you can buy in the market.

Storm doors block drafts in the winter helping to minimize energy loss, and many have clip-in tempered glass panels that you can remove and replace with insect screen panels for the summer. In addition, storm doors protect the prime(main) door and newer models can actually add to your home’s curb appeal.

Installing Storm And Screen Doors

Choices Sturdy storm doors that don’t rattle, twist, or dent are made with a solid particleboard core that has an outer aluminum skin given a baked-on finish,They are sold as pre-framed units that are easily screwed into existing door-jambs. Both storm and screen doors come in standard door widths of 30,32,34, and 36 inches and may be hinged on either side. (When buying one, be sure you get the right size-measure the door’s opening between the door­jambs, not the size of the door) Some are made so that the unused glass or screening panel stores inside the door. Those designed for security often have a heavy-duty aluminum or steel frame with a foam or solid wood core and tamper-proof hinges and deadbolt.

If you want to display your front door or maximize light and views, choose a storm door with a full-height glass panel. The midview type has a solid panel in the bottom third of the door; a high-view door has a glazed section that extends to about half the door’s height.

If you know the brand of door on your home, check to see if the manufacturer provides a door kit for storms and screens. This is an especially good idea if you have a sliding or French door. The kit will match the door’s design and fit properly over the threshold.

About Installation Storm doors come with full instructions and a template for mounting the hardware. Major manufacturers offer assistance by phone and instructions or troubleshooting information on the World Wide Web, There are two areas where you can make mistakes that are difficult to fix. The first can occur when cutting the vertical mounting frames-these must fit your openings. Don’t cut them too short. Also, when drilling a wood-core storm door for the hardware, drill holes precisely. Manufacturers supply a template to make this job easier. Take your time and follow the instructions.

Door Closers To automatically close the storm or screen door install a closer-either a simple chain-linked snubber or a pneumatic or hydraulic type. The closer ensures that the door closes smoothly and protects the door from being opened too wide or with too much force. A closer also keeps the door from being jerked open by the wind.

Installing a closer is fairly simple. Before you begin, check that the door operation is smooth and that the door hardware is in good working order. If you’re installing a snubber, fasten the door mounting bracket to the door’s top rail and the jamb mounting bracket to the head jamb. Adjust the length of the chain as necessary. For a pneumatic closer install the door mounting bracket on the door’s top rail, mount the closer in the bracket, and fasten the jamb mounting bracket to the hinge jamb; then adjust the tension.

Installing A Door Closer

Snubber

This is the least expensive door-dosing device. A simple chain with a coil, it can be used on aluminum-or wood-frame storms and screens. Instructions on the package should show you where and how to mount the door mounting bracket.

Pneumatic closer

A pneumatic doser provides a little resistance so the screen or storm door won’t slam shut. The hold-open washer allows you to prop the door open when you’re carrying groceries into the house. Turn the adjustment screw to reduce the tension on lightweight doors.

Hydraulic closer

To make sure an exterior door doses automatically, you can install a hydraulic doser on it. Some types fit only a right-handed or left­handed door; others can be adjusted for either type of door by inserting a screwdriver in the adjustment screw, pushing in, and turning the screw 180 degrees. A slight adjustment to the same screw changes the door’s dosing speed.