Installing A Pre-hung Door

Pre-hung interior doors normally have a piece of scrap trim stapled to the bottom of the door and the jambs. After carrying the door to where you intend to install it, you remove this temporary brace(you must be able to open and close the door as you place shims between the studs and jambs, drive nails to hold the jambs, and check the alignment of jambs).

When you’re ordering a pre-hung door; make sure you specify the wall’s overall thickness. The jambs ordered for plaster-covered walls must be wider than those fm walls finished with drywall. When you fit the jamb into the rough opening, you’ll see that the jamb is wider than the rough framing, and it will stick out on either side-be sure the distances are proper to allow for drywall, plaster; or sheathing and siding(in the case of an exterior door).

For information on how to prepare the rough opening.

Position The Door Properly Place the door in the rough opening, centering it in the frame and fastening it. Using a piece of drywall(or other finish material) as a spacer against the trimmer studs, slightly adjust the unit back and forth until flush with the spacer. (If the finish floor is not yet installed, raise the side jambs to the correct level with blocks; you want to avoid cutting off the bottom of a new door when possible.)

Before nailing the jambs, it’s very important to make sure the door fits squarely in the opening and that the jambs are plumb, both from side to side and from front to back. Drive pairs of tapered wooden shims between the jambs and the trimmer studs (if the casing is attached to the jambs, insert shims from the open side) to adjust the unit and hold it in place until you nail it.

Secure The Door Hinge-Side First Start by shimming the lower hinge side of the door. Nail through the jamb and shims partway (I inch) into the stud with a 3½-inch finishing nail; position the nail where the stop molding will cover it. Insert shims next to the upper hinge location, check the jamb for plumb, and nail partway. Again, shim, plumb, and nail halfway between the top and middle hinge positions. Repeat between the middle and bottom hinges. Check to make sure the jamb above the doorway is level. Now shim the opposite jamb at similar locations, but don’t nail where you’ll need to cut for the latch.

Complete The Installation Remove any bracing or blocking tacked to the unit. Close the door and check that there is the same amount of space(about 1/16 to 1/8-inch) between the edges of the door and the jambs. If the door sticks or is out of alignment, pull nails in the area that seems to be the problem, using a block to protect the jambs from your hammer. Adjust shims and renail. Install the lockset. Drive the nails home and set the heads with a nailset. Cut the shims off flush with the jambs, using a handsaw(you can just break off short, thin pieces). Finish with door casing or other trim.

For exterior doors, nail the threshold between the jambs, shimming below it if the threshold does not rest securely on the subfloor. Finally, install the stop molding with 1½­inch finishing nails.

Installing A Door

Position the pre-hung assembly in the opening and temporarily secure it in place with shims and finishing nails. Adjust for plumb as necessary. After final adjustments are made, set the nail heads, cut the shims flush using a handsaw, and install the trim.

Removing A Door

To remove a door, dose the door securely(place a wedge under it or have a helper hold the door). Using a hammer and a nail, gently tap on the bottom of the lowest hinge pin or on the underside of its head to drive it up and out of the hinge barrel. Remove the middle pin, if any; then remove the top pin. Carefully dislodge the door from its hinges. When you reinstall the door, interlock the hinge leaves, then replace the top pin first. Next replace the middle and bottom pins. Tap the pins home with a hammer only after the hinges are correctly aligned.

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Installing Storm And Screen Doors

Choices Sturdy storm doors that don’t rattle, twist, or dent are made with a solid particleboard core that has an outer aluminum skin given a baked-on finish,They are sold as pre-framed units that are easily screwed into existing door-jambs. Both storm and screen doors come in standard door widths of 30,32,34, and 36 inches and may be hinged on either side. (When buying one, be sure you get the right size-measure the door’s opening between the door­jambs, not the size of the door) Some are made so that the unused glass or screening panel stores inside the door. Those designed for security often have a heavy-duty aluminum or steel frame with a foam or solid wood core and tamper-proof hinges and deadbolt.

If you want to display your front door or maximize light and views, choose a storm door with a full-height glass panel. The midview type has a solid panel in the bottom third of the door; a high-view door has a glazed section that extends to about half the door’s height.

If you know the brand of door on your home, check to see if the manufacturer provides a door kit for storms and screens. This is an especially good idea if you have a sliding or French door. The kit will match the door’s design and fit properly over the threshold.

About Installation Storm doors come with full instructions and a template for mounting the hardware. Major manufacturers offer assistance by phone and instructions or troubleshooting information on the World Wide Web, There are two areas where you can make mistakes that are difficult to fix. The first can occur when cutting the vertical mounting frames-these must fit your openings. Don’t cut them too short. Also, when drilling a wood-core storm door for the hardware, drill holes precisely. Manufacturers supply a template to make this job easier. Take your time and follow the instructions.

Door Closers To automatically close the storm or screen door install a closer-either a simple chain-linked snubber or a pneumatic or hydraulic type. The closer ensures that the door closes smoothly and protects the door from being opened too wide or with too much force. A closer also keeps the door from being jerked open by the wind.

Installing a closer is fairly simple. Before you begin, check that the door operation is smooth and that the door hardware is in good working order. If you’re installing a snubber, fasten the door mounting bracket to the door’s top rail and the jamb mounting bracket to the head jamb. Adjust the length of the chain as necessary. For a pneumatic closer install the door mounting bracket on the door’s top rail, mount the closer in the bracket, and fasten the jamb mounting bracket to the hinge jamb; then adjust the tension.

Installing A Door Closer

Snubber

This is the least expensive door-dosing device. A simple chain with a coil, it can be used on aluminum-or wood-frame storms and screens. Instructions on the package should show you where and how to mount the door mounting bracket.

Pneumatic closer

A pneumatic doser provides a little resistance so the screen or storm door won’t slam shut. The hold-open washer allows you to prop the door open when you’re carrying groceries into the house. Turn the adjustment screw to reduce the tension on lightweight doors.

Hydraulic closer

To make sure an exterior door doses automatically, you can install a hydraulic doser on it. Some types fit only a right-handed or left­handed door; others can be adjusted for either type of door by inserting a screwdriver in the adjustment screw, pushing in, and turning the screw 180 degrees. A slight adjustment to the same screw changes the door’s dosing speed.

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Installing Asphalt Shingles

Cutting Cut asphalt shingles face down on a fiat surface with a sharp utility knife. Hold a carpenter’s square or straightedge on the cut line and score the back of the shingle with the knife. Then bend the shingle to break it on the scored line.

Fastening Secure asphalt shingles with 12-gauge galvanized roofing nails. Use 1¼-inch-long nails for new roofs, 1½-inch nails when reroofing over an old asphalt roof.

Begin nailing the starter shingles at the rake and continue along the eaves. Allow a ½-inch overhang along the eaves and at both rakes, and 1/16-inch spacing between shingles. Use four nails each, nailed 3-inches above the eaves. Nail the first course over the starter course, using four nails per shingle.

When laying the successive courses, your main concern is proper alignment of the shingles-both horizontally and vertically. To horizontally align shingles that will be nailed over roofing felt snap chalk lines; if you’re reroofing without adding felt just butt the new shingles against the old ones.

When working with standard three-tab shingles, you can produce centered, diagonal, or random roof patterns by adjusting the length of the shingle that begins each course. Centered alignment creates the most uniform appearance, but is also the most difficult pattern to achieve. Diagonal alignment is a little more forgiving since the joints of four courses in a row are offset. Random alignment produces a more rustic appearance and is the easiest of the three patterns to lay: Just offset the joints of three courses in a row by at least 3-inches.

If you haven’t purchased ready-made hip and ridge shingles, you can cut and bend 12-inch squares from standard shingles. Snap chalk lines along each side of the ridge and along each hip, 6- inches from the center.

Laying Asphalt Shingling

1. Lay the starter course

A narrow starter course of shingles runs along the eaves to form a base for the first full course. When reroofing, cut the starter course 5-inches wide to match the exposure of the existing first course. For a new roof, cut a 9-inch-wide starter course. Trim 6-inches off the length of the first starter shingle to offset the cutouts in the starter course with the cutouts in the first full course.

1. Lay the first course

On a new roof, use full-width shingles for the first course. When reroofing, use a 10-inch-wide course to cover the two 5-inch exposures of the existing first two courses. Allow the same ½-inch overhang at the rakes and eaves and 1/16-inch between shingles.

1. Lay successive courses

If you’re using chalk lines, snap one every 10 inches from the bottom of the first course up to the ridge. Before you start the second row of shingles, also snap vertical chalk lines from the roof ridge to one end of every shingle along the first course, or every 36-inches.

1. Install hip And ridge shingles

If your roof has hips, shingle them before the ridge, beginning with a double layer of shingles at the bottom of one hip. Work toward the ridge, applying shingles with a 5-inch exposure. Align the edge of each shingle with the chalk line. To shingle the ridge, start at the end opposite the direction from which the wind most often blows. Use nails long enough to penetrate the ridge board securely(about 2 inches long).

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Installing a Prefab Fireplace

Unlike building a traditional brick fireplace, installing a factory-built fireplace requires no masonry skills. The project is straightforward unless the installation involves running a flue through an upstairs bedroom or attic. Nevertheless, this is a relatively big job that does require knowledge of basic construction techniques such as working with concrete foundations, framing walls, and more. If you’re not an avid do-it-yourselfer, you’re better off having your new fireplace professionally installed.

A fireplace can be installed flush in a wall or boxed in at the end of a room, or in a corner. Installing a fireplace inside the walls of your home is considerably more involved because you must provide proper support under the floor and run a flue up through the ceiling and out the roof. For this type of project, call a building contractor or professional fireplace installer.

Following are general guidelines for accomplishing an outside installation. Manufacturers provide specific guidelines for framing, depending on the product. Be sure to check those specifications and follow the directions precisely.

The Overall Strategy The firebox and flue are installed in a chimney-like enclosure called a “chase,” which’s framed like a conventional wall. The chase must be supported by a foundation. It can narrow above the fireplace and be covered to resemble a masonry chimney, or it can extend in an unbroken line to the top and be covered to match the siding of the house.

Although factory-built fireplaces come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, a typical firebox opening is 28 to 42 inches wide and 16 to 24 inches high. The overall dimensions of the fireplace and the size of the room determine whether the fireplace projects fully into the room, is placed entirely outside the wall, or falls somewhere in between. Typical outside dimensions for built-in fireplaces are 38 to 52 inches wide, 23 to 26 inches front to back, and 40 to 5 inches from the bottom of the firebox to the top of the smoke dome.

Detailed dimensions may matter more than overall dimensions if your space is tight. For example, the chimney collar may fall at the center of the front-to-back axis or off to one side. The exact location of the chimney collar will affect the placement of your fireplace and its foundation.

If you’re installing a heat-circulating fireplace with flexible ducting, you’ll have to frame openings for inlets and/or outlets. You may want to make a trial assembly of the ducts before framing to make sure you understand the needs of the installation. Also, before you begin to frame, plan where you’ll place the opening for an outside combustion air duct and where you’ll plumb the gas line for a gas lighter, if you’re using these optional devices.

Factory-built fireplaces have stand-offs and V-shaped spacing tabs on the firebox to maintain clearances, so framing members may not be notched to fit these in. Don’t be misled by the term “zero clearance,” which only applies to the base, not the top or sides.

Establishing A Base Dig out the site for a continuous footing and foundation to the same depth as the house’s. Build concrete forms and tie steel reinforcing bars in the footing into those in the existing foundation. Top the foundation with a mudsill that is flush with its counterpart in the main foundation.

Then cut away both interior and exterior wall surface materials to expose the wall’s framing. Erect a support reaching from floor to ceiling and beyond each side of the opening to support the ceiling joists while you cut out the studs and replace them with a framed opening. Build the header from a pair of 2 by 6’s on edge. If you’re planning an outer hearth, trim the sole plate flush with the inside finished floor

If you plan to change level in order to have a raised hearth, or to lower the fireplace so the firebox floor is flush with the hearth extension, consult your building department before designing a foundation and joist system. Especially in cases of lowering a firebox, you risk violating codes on minimum clearances of wood from earth and wood from firebox opening. Once the platform is complete, slide the fireplace into position, then add a sole plate around the platform perimeter.

Building The Chase After you position the fireplace, assemble and attach the flue up to the eaves(if you’re using 15-inch-diameter pipe, it won’t fit between studs set 16 inches on center). Pipes of smaller diameter can be assembled after framing is complete.

Use 2 -by-4 studs spaced 16 inches on center to build exterior walls around the perimeter. Diagonal bracing or plywood sheathing may be required by code. Secure the studs butted against the wall to the main wall’s studs.

One area of some complexity is fireblocking. One fireblock is required for every 8 feet of vertical rise. These fireblocks must form a solid horizontal stop across the chase to block upward drafts, and the chimney must have a firestop spacer where it passes through the fireblock, as in inside installations.The example shown approximates the framing for a code-approved firestop, but be sure to check with your building inspector before designing your chase. The horizontal cover is usually made of 3/8-inch plywood. It must fit snugly against the walls of the chase on all four sides, meeting firestop blocks set between the studs.

When the chase is constructed to its full height, install roof flashing and a closing, such as prefabricated sheet-metal closures available in several sizes from fireplace dealers. Then top the chimney with a cap made for it.

Finishing The Interior Replace the interior wall covering(or repair damage), holding any combustible material back the required clearance from the fireplace.

Facing The Fireplace If your facing is made of plywood, drywall, or any other combustible material, it must not cover the fireplace face frame. Instead, butt it flush against the outer edges of the frame, or; if it’s to project from the face frame, set it at least 6 inches from the sides of the firebox opening and 12 inches above the top. This setback requirement also applies to mantels.

Finishing The Hearth For a raised hearth, frame a platform over the finished floor using ¾-inch plywood. Place a 24-gauge galvanized steel or aluminum sheet under the firebox and extend it to the end of the hearth to serve as a spark guard.

Reinforce the platform with 2-by-4 cross members centered beneath joints in the plywood. Remember that the bottom thickness of a factory-built fireplace firebox can range from 6 to 9 inches, so the opening will be noticeably higher than the hearth extension unless you set the fire­place on a separate, lower platform.

For a hearth extension approximately flush with the finished floor, cut away the floor to the desired width and length. Lay down ½-inch-thick cement board and bond tile or slate to the board. A hearth laid over a finished floor will require no carpentry, but such hearths produce a toe-stubbing lip, and particularly thick ones may obstruct the inlets of a heat-circulating fireplace.

Installation Steps For A Flush Fireplace

1. Build the platform

Pour a foundation and cut open the wall. Then build a platform flush with the subfloor and a kinch-thick hearth flush with the finished floor. Lop the joists for the platform at least 1 foot along existing subfloor joists and nail with at least three 3½-inch common nails on both sides, at each end of the overlap.

1. Assemble the chimney

Position the fireplace, then assemble the chimney to the eaves. Hold the pipe in place with temporary plumber’s tape bands until you build the framing. Cut the roof eave’s line back flush with the house wall and just wide enough to accept the framing plus its covering.

1. Frame the chase

Using 2-by-4 studs spaced 16-inches on center, build exterior walls around the perimeter. At the top, install roof flashing and a closing, such as a prefabricated sheet-metal closure. Cap the chimney with a manufactured cap. Insulate the chase with unfaced batts. Sheathe or side the exterior of the chase to match the house.

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repairing-and-paneling-of-wall

Damaged solid board paneling responds well to techniques for repairing minor scratches, dents, and gouges. If the damage is more serious, you may want to replace one or more boards, carefully matching the new paneling to the existing surface.

Minor Scratches And Gouges On solid board paneling, it’s common to conceal shallow scratches and gouges by filling them with a putty stick, then wiping away excess putty with a clean cloth. You can also conceal minor scratches as you would those on furniture~with furniture polish or an almond stick, a compressed fabric stick impregnated with oil.

When sheet paneling is damaged, the simplest way to conceal flaws is to use a putty stick to “draw” over the mar; wipe away any excess putty with a clean cloth. (Putty sticks come in a variety of colors to match finished wood paneling.) You can also hide scratches and nicks with shoe polish(test first), floor wax, or an almond stick.

Dents And Deep Gouges Restore dented solid panels by removing the finish from the dent area, then placing a damp cloth and hot Iron over the dent until the wood fibers rise to the level of the surrounding surface. Let the wood dry thoroughly before sanding it smooth and refinishing the area. To repair a deep gouge or a nail hole, apply matching wood putty with a flexible putty knife. Let it dry, then sand smooth with fine-grade sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Finish to match the surrounding area.

For badly damaged sheet panels, use a putty knife to fill deep gouges and cracks with wood putty. When the putty is dry, sand it smooth. Use a small brush to stain or paint the putty so it matches the finish of the panel, or use colored putty that matches the finish.

Replacing Solid Paneling

1. Cut out damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, adjust the blade depth of a circular saw to the board’s thickness and saw up the damaged board’s center, then split the board with a chisel.

1. Pry off sections

Wedge a broad-blade prybar or wide chisel between the sawn edges. Pry the sections away from the wall, one at a time. (The tongue section may be blind-nailed.)

1. Cut a replacement

Place the damaged board over the new board; mark the correct length using a pencil and combination square. Use a crosscut saw to cut the replacement board to length. Remove the back of the new boards groove with a wood chisel (inset).

1. Install the replacement

Align the replacement board with the adjacent one, starting at the ceiling. Fit the tongue of the new board into the groove of the adjacent board and slip it into place. Tap the board into place with a padded block. Drive finishing nails at tap and bottom, sinking heads with a nail set; fill holes with wood putty and finish. Replace baseboard.

Repairing Sheet Paneling

1. Remove the damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, split the panel near one edge(not on a stud), using a hammer and chisel; pry the panel off the studs with a prybar, being careful not to damage adjacent panels. Wedge a prybar between the panel and studs to break any adhesive bond.

1. Apply paneling adhesive

After pulling off the old paneling and moping off any adhesive(or removing nails), apply a bead of adhesive along the length of the studs to hold the new panel.

1. Install the new panel

Position the new panel; drive 4 finishing nails near the top of the panel to secure it. Then pull out the base, holding it with a wood block until the adhesive becomes tacky. Remove the block and press the panel in place. With a padded block, hammer along edges and over studs. Remove finishing nails if not needed. Replace baseboard.

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