Repairing and Paneling of wall

Before attempting to repair wooden wall paneling. You’ll see that paneling comes in a variety of types and forms; you’ll want to take your particular type into consideration when making repairs Boards may have square edges, but most are milled to overlap or interlock. Paneling is attached to studs, furring strips, or wallboard.

Damaged solid board paneling responds well to techniques for repairing minor scratches, dents, and gouges. If the damage is more serious, you may want to replace one or more boards, carefully matching the new paneling to the existing surface.

Minor Scratches And Gouges On solid board paneling, it’s common to conceal shallow scratches and gouges by filling them with a putty stick, then wiping away excess putty with a clean cloth. You can also conceal minor scratches as you would those on furniture~with furniture polish or an almond stick, a compressed fabric stick impregnated with oil.

When sheet paneling is damaged, the simplest way to conceal flaws is to use a putty stick to “draw” over the mar; wipe away any excess putty with a clean cloth. (Putty sticks come in a variety of colors to match finished wood paneling.) You can also hide scratches and nicks with shoe polish(test first), floor wax, or an almond stick.

Dents And Deep Gouges Restore dented solid panels by removing the finish from the dent area, then placing a damp cloth and hot Iron over the dent until the wood fibers rise to the level of the surrounding surface. Let the wood dry thoroughly before sanding it smooth and refinishing the area. To repair a deep gouge or a nail hole, apply matching wood putty with a flexible putty knife. Let it dry, then sand smooth with fine-grade sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Finish to match the surrounding area.

For badly damaged sheet panels, use a putty knife to fill deep gouges and cracks with wood putty. When the putty is dry, sand it smooth. Use a small brush to stain or paint the putty so it matches the finish of the panel, or use colored putty that matches the finish.

Replacing Solid Paneling

1. Cut out damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, adjust the blade depth of a circular saw to the board’s thickness and saw up the damaged board’s center, then split the board with a chisel.

1. Pry off sections

Wedge a broad-blade prybar or wide chisel between the sawn edges. Pry the sections away from the wall, one at a time. (The tongue section may be blind-nailed.)

1. Cut a replacement

Place the damaged board over the new board; mark the correct length using a pencil and combination square. Use a crosscut saw to cut the replacement board to length. Remove the back of the new boards groove with a wood chisel (inset).

1. Install the replacement

Align the replacement board with the adjacent one, starting at the ceiling. Fit the tongue of the new board into the groove of the adjacent board and slip it into place. Tap the board into place with a padded block. Drive finishing nails at tap and bottom, sinking heads with a nail set; fill holes with wood putty and finish. Replace baseboard.

Repairing Sheet Paneling

1. Remove the damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, split the panel near one edge(not on a stud), using a hammer and chisel; pry the panel off the studs with a prybar, being careful not to damage adjacent panels. Wedge a prybar between the panel and studs to break any adhesive bond.

1. Apply paneling adhesive

After pulling off the old paneling and moping off any adhesive(or removing nails), apply a bead of adhesive along the length of the studs to hold the new panel.

1. Install the new panel

Position the new panel; drive 4 finishing nails near the top of the panel to secure it. Then pull out the base, holding it with a wood block until the adhesive becomes tacky. Remove the block and press the panel in place. With a padded block, hammer along edges and over studs. Remove finishing nails if not needed. Replace baseboard.