Standard three-tab asphalt shingles are the easiest of all roofing materials to install. They are a manageable weight to carry and a breeze to cut and nail. In addition, the 12-by-36­inch shingles, when given a standard weather exposure of 5-inches, cover large areas very quickly. Asphalt roof shingles are also affordable, long lasting, and readily available at home centers and lumberyards.

Installing Asphalt Shingles

Cutting Cut asphalt shingles face down on a fiat surface with a sharp utility knife. Hold a carpenter’s square or straightedge on the cut line and score the back of the shingle with the knife. Then bend the shingle to break it on the scored line.

Fastening Secure asphalt shingles with 12-gauge galvanized roofing nails. Use 1¼-inch-long nails for new roofs, 1½-inch nails when reroofing over an old asphalt roof.

Begin nailing the starter shingles at the rake and continue along the eaves. Allow a ½-inch overhang along the eaves and at both rakes, and 1/16-inch spacing between shingles. Use four nails each, nailed 3-inches above the eaves. Nail the first course over the starter course, using four nails per shingle.

When laying the successive courses, your main concern is proper alignment of the shingles-both horizontally and vertically. To horizontally align shingles that will be nailed over roofing felt snap chalk lines; if you’re reroofing without adding felt just butt the new shingles against the old ones.

When working with standard three-tab shingles, you can produce centered, diagonal, or random roof patterns by adjusting the length of the shingle that begins each course. Centered alignment creates the most uniform appearance, but is also the most difficult pattern to achieve. Diagonal alignment is a little more forgiving since the joints of four courses in a row are offset. Random alignment produces a more rustic appearance and is the easiest of the three patterns to lay: Just offset the joints of three courses in a row by at least 3-inches.

If you haven’t purchased ready-made hip and ridge shingles, you can cut and bend 12-inch squares from standard shingles. Snap chalk lines along each side of the ridge and along each hip, 6- inches from the center.

Laying Asphalt Shingling

1. Lay the starter course

A narrow starter course of shingles runs along the eaves to form a base for the first full course. When reroofing, cut the starter course 5-inches wide to match the exposure of the existing first course. For a new roof, cut a 9-inch-wide starter course. Trim 6-inches off the length of the first starter shingle to offset the cutouts in the starter course with the cutouts in the first full course.

1. Lay the first course

On a new roof, use full-width shingles for the first course. When reroofing, use a 10-inch-wide course to cover the two 5-inch exposures of the existing first two courses. Allow the same ½-inch overhang at the rakes and eaves and 1/16-inch between shingles.

1. Lay successive courses

If you’re using chalk lines, snap one every 10 inches from the bottom of the first course up to the ridge. Before you start the second row of shingles, also snap vertical chalk lines from the roof ridge to one end of every shingle along the first course, or every 36-inches.

1. Install hip And ridge shingles

If your roof has hips, shingle them before the ridge, beginning with a double layer of shingles at the bottom of one hip. Work toward the ridge, applying shingles with a 5-inch exposure. Align the edge of each shingle with the chalk line. To shingle the ridge, start at the end opposite the direction from which the wind most often blows. Use nails long enough to penetrate the ridge board securely(about 2 inches long).

Installing a Prefab Fireplace

Unlike building a traditional brick fireplace, installing a factory-built fireplace requires no masonry skills. The project is straightforward unless the installation involves running a flue through an upstairs bedroom or attic. Nevertheless, this is a relatively big job that does require knowledge of basic construction techniques such as working with concrete foundations, framing walls, and more. If you’re not an avid do-it-yourselfer, you’re better off having your new fireplace professionally installed.

A fireplace can be installed flush in a wall or boxed in at the end of a room, or in a corner. Installing a fireplace inside the walls of your home is considerably more involved because you must provide proper support under the floor and run a flue up through the ceiling and out the roof. For this type of project, call a building contractor or professional fireplace installer.

Following are general guidelines for accomplishing an outside installation. Manufacturers provide specific guidelines for framing, depending on the product. Be sure to check those specifications and follow the directions precisely.

The Overall Strategy The firebox and flue are installed in a chimney-like enclosure called a “chase,” which’s framed like a conventional wall. The chase must be supported by a foundation. It can narrow above the fireplace and be covered to resemble a masonry chimney, or it can extend in an unbroken line to the top and be covered to match the siding of the house.

Although factory-built fireplaces come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, a typical firebox opening is 28 to 42 inches wide and 16 to 24 inches high. The overall dimensions of the fireplace and the size of the room determine whether the fireplace projects fully into the room, is placed entirely outside the wall, or falls somewhere in between. Typical outside dimensions for built-in fireplaces are 38 to 52 inches wide, 23 to 26 inches front to back, and 40 to 5 inches from the bottom of the firebox to the top of the smoke dome.

Detailed dimensions may matter more than overall dimensions if your space is tight. For example, the chimney collar may fall at the center of the front-to-back axis or off to one side. The exact location of the chimney collar will affect the placement of your fireplace and its foundation.

If you’re installing a heat-circulating fireplace with flexible ducting, you’ll have to frame openings for inlets and/or outlets. You may want to make a trial assembly of the ducts before framing to make sure you understand the needs of the installation. Also, before you begin to frame, plan where you’ll place the opening for an outside combustion air duct and where you’ll plumb the gas line for a gas lighter, if you’re using these optional devices.

Factory-built fireplaces have stand-offs and V-shaped spacing tabs on the firebox to maintain clearances, so framing members may not be notched to fit these in. Don’t be misled by the term “zero clearance,” which only applies to the base, not the top or sides.

Establishing A Base Dig out the site for a continuous footing and foundation to the same depth as the house’s. Build concrete forms and tie steel reinforcing bars in the footing into those in the existing foundation. Top the foundation with a mudsill that is flush with its counterpart in the main foundation.

Then cut away both interior and exterior wall surface materials to expose the wall’s framing. Erect a support reaching from floor to ceiling and beyond each side of the opening to support the ceiling joists while you cut out the studs and replace them with a framed opening. Build the header from a pair of 2 by 6’s on edge. If you’re planning an outer hearth, trim the sole plate flush with the inside finished floor

If you plan to change level in order to have a raised hearth, or to lower the fireplace so the firebox floor is flush with the hearth extension, consult your building department before designing a foundation and joist system. Especially in cases of lowering a firebox, you risk violating codes on minimum clearances of wood from earth and wood from firebox opening. Once the platform is complete, slide the fireplace into position, then add a sole plate around the platform perimeter.

Building The Chase After you position the fireplace, assemble and attach the flue up to the eaves(if you’re using 15-inch-diameter pipe, it won’t fit between studs set 16 inches on center). Pipes of smaller diameter can be assembled after framing is complete.

Use 2 -by-4 studs spaced 16 inches on center to build exterior walls around the perimeter. Diagonal bracing or plywood sheathing may be required by code. Secure the studs butted against the wall to the main wall’s studs.

One area of some complexity is fireblocking. One fireblock is required for every 8 feet of vertical rise. These fireblocks must form a solid horizontal stop across the chase to block upward drafts, and the chimney must have a firestop spacer where it passes through the fireblock, as in inside installations.The example shown approximates the framing for a code-approved firestop, but be sure to check with your building inspector before designing your chase. The horizontal cover is usually made of 3/8-inch plywood. It must fit snugly against the walls of the chase on all four sides, meeting firestop blocks set between the studs.

When the chase is constructed to its full height, install roof flashing and a closing, such as prefabricated sheet-metal closures available in several sizes from fireplace dealers. Then top the chimney with a cap made for it.

Finishing The Interior Replace the interior wall covering(or repair damage), holding any combustible material back the required clearance from the fireplace.

Facing The Fireplace If your facing is made of plywood, drywall, or any other combustible material, it must not cover the fireplace face frame. Instead, butt it flush against the outer edges of the frame, or; if it’s to project from the face frame, set it at least 6 inches from the sides of the firebox opening and 12 inches above the top. This setback requirement also applies to mantels.

Finishing The Hearth For a raised hearth, frame a platform over the finished floor using ¾-inch plywood. Place a 24-gauge galvanized steel or aluminum sheet under the firebox and extend it to the end of the hearth to serve as a spark guard.

Reinforce the platform with 2-by-4 cross members centered beneath joints in the plywood. Remember that the bottom thickness of a factory-built fireplace firebox can range from 6 to 9 inches, so the opening will be noticeably higher than the hearth extension unless you set the fire­place on a separate, lower platform.

For a hearth extension approximately flush with the finished floor, cut away the floor to the desired width and length. Lay down ½-inch-thick cement board and bond tile or slate to the board. A hearth laid over a finished floor will require no carpentry, but such hearths produce a toe-stubbing lip, and particularly thick ones may obstruct the inlets of a heat-circulating fireplace.

Installation Steps For A Flush Fireplace

1. Build the platform

Pour a foundation and cut open the wall. Then build a platform flush with the subfloor and a kinch-thick hearth flush with the finished floor. Lop the joists for the platform at least 1 foot along existing subfloor joists and nail with at least three 3½-inch common nails on both sides, at each end of the overlap.

1. Assemble the chimney

Position the fireplace, then assemble the chimney to the eaves. Hold the pipe in place with temporary plumber’s tape bands until you build the framing. Cut the roof eave’s line back flush with the house wall and just wide enough to accept the framing plus its covering.

1. Frame the chase

Using 2-by-4 studs spaced 16-inches on center, build exterior walls around the perimeter. At the top, install roof flashing and a closing, such as a prefabricated sheet-metal closure. Cap the chimney with a manufactured cap. Insulate the chase with unfaced batts. Sheathe or side the exterior of the chase to match the house.

Before attempting to repair wooden wall paneling. You’ll see that paneling comes in a variety of types and forms; you’ll want to take your particular type into consideration when making repairs Boards may have square edges, but most are milled to overlap or interlock. Paneling is attached to studs, furring strips, or wallboard.

repairing-and-paneling-of-wall

Damaged solid board paneling responds well to techniques for repairing minor scratches, dents, and gouges. If the damage is more serious, you may want to replace one or more boards, carefully matching the new paneling to the existing surface.

Minor Scratches And Gouges On solid board paneling, it’s common to conceal shallow scratches and gouges by filling them with a putty stick, then wiping away excess putty with a clean cloth. You can also conceal minor scratches as you would those on furniture~with furniture polish or an almond stick, a compressed fabric stick impregnated with oil.

When sheet paneling is damaged, the simplest way to conceal flaws is to use a putty stick to “draw” over the mar; wipe away any excess putty with a clean cloth. (Putty sticks come in a variety of colors to match finished wood paneling.) You can also hide scratches and nicks with shoe polish(test first), floor wax, or an almond stick.

Dents And Deep Gouges Restore dented solid panels by removing the finish from the dent area, then placing a damp cloth and hot Iron over the dent until the wood fibers rise to the level of the surrounding surface. Let the wood dry thoroughly before sanding it smooth and refinishing the area. To repair a deep gouge or a nail hole, apply matching wood putty with a flexible putty knife. Let it dry, then sand smooth with fine-grade sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Finish to match the surrounding area.

For badly damaged sheet panels, use a putty knife to fill deep gouges and cracks with wood putty. When the putty is dry, sand it smooth. Use a small brush to stain or paint the putty so it matches the finish of the panel, or use colored putty that matches the finish.

Replacing Solid Paneling

1. Cut out damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, adjust the blade depth of a circular saw to the board’s thickness and saw up the damaged board’s center, then split the board with a chisel.

1. Pry off sections

Wedge a broad-blade prybar or wide chisel between the sawn edges. Pry the sections away from the wall, one at a time. (The tongue section may be blind-nailed.)

1. Cut a replacement

Place the damaged board over the new board; mark the correct length using a pencil and combination square. Use a crosscut saw to cut the replacement board to length. Remove the back of the new boards groove with a wood chisel (inset).

1. Install the replacement

Align the replacement board with the adjacent one, starting at the ceiling. Fit the tongue of the new board into the groove of the adjacent board and slip it into place. Tap the board into place with a padded block. Drive finishing nails at tap and bottom, sinking heads with a nail set; fill holes with wood putty and finish. Replace baseboard.

Repairing Sheet Paneling

1. Remove the damaged panel

After removing the baseboard, split the panel near one edge(not on a stud), using a hammer and chisel; pry the panel off the studs with a prybar, being careful not to damage adjacent panels. Wedge a prybar between the panel and studs to break any adhesive bond.

1. Apply paneling adhesive

After pulling off the old paneling and moping off any adhesive(or removing nails), apply a bead of adhesive along the length of the studs to hold the new panel.

1. Install the new panel

Position the new panel; drive 4 finishing nails near the top of the panel to secure it. Then pull out the base, holding it with a wood block until the adhesive becomes tacky. Remove the block and press the panel in place. With a padded block, hammer along edges and over studs. Remove finishing nails if not needed. Replace baseboard.